Printing Sienna’s ‘Petshops’ On The Form 1 And Form 1+

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We left the fox to cure while Sienna went to school and I took off for work.


It’s worth noting that leaving a Form 1+ printed part to cure in the sun all day long is not really recommended. It will cure the material but if you leave part in the sun too long, it can become brittle. It’s best to leave the part on the window sill or in a UV box till it loses it’s tackiness, and then spray the part with paint or a clear UV protectant.

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About D.R. Greenlaw

Greenlaw likes to make comics, animated shorts, and funny voices.

2 thoughts on “Printing Sienna’s ‘Petshops’ On The Form 1 And Form 1+

  1. This was cool to see. And makes me wish to consider more on getting my own 3d printer.

    I like the gray. I bet it takes to being painted on better.

    I wonder how well polishing it by hand with a Dremel would work.

    I can see in the picture the stepping through the painting on the fox, on preview 25. Real nice picture of it by the way. Can really see the detail. The stepping is mostly only noticeable on the little piece of neck fur. That part would be hard to smooth by hand.

    1. Thanks Chris.

      Yeah it’s been fun. We’ve been active with the printer lately and we hope to have new stuff posted soon.

      The gray shows details very nicely but, maybe more importantly, it also reveals flaws that are difficult to see with the transparent material. Either material sands very nicely if you use a micro-fine paper (car paint grade). I did get a small cordless Dremel tool a few months ago and, yes, polishing it very easy with it.

      I’ve heard that some users will brush or dab on the resin material over any holes and rough patches, and then use an ultraviolet light to cure it. Once cured, they sand the flaws smooth. I got a UV LED flashlight a couple of weeks ago and will try it out soon. More on that later.

      Regarding ‘stepping’: The fox was printed at the lowest quality setting (at the time) or 100 microns. The printer is capable of printing as high as 25 microns. That’s much higher quality (about 1/4 the thickness of hair,) but very slow at that res–four times longer in fact. Sienna has been pretty happy with the ‘low’ setting and, TBH, it is hard to see the ridges when it’s painted over (you really have to look for it). When ridging is an issue at this res, I find that leaving it in the alcohol bath longer has the effect of smoothing it further.

      For my own stuff, I’ve been using 50 microns, which is a good compromise for quality and speed. I’ll try to post some stuff once I get them painted.

      Recently Form Labs added ‘draft’ mode to the printer software, which is 200 microns. This mode only works with Clear I think. It’s a lower res but it’s supposed to be very fast. Good for prototyping your prototypes I guess. 🙂

      I’ll write more info about printing and finishing tricks in a future article.

      By the way, Formlabs has a crazy new material they simply call Tough Resin. I’ve seen videos of one user bashing a TR part with a hammer and squashing it in a bench vice. The hammer didn’t seem to do much to it, and the vice managed to tear it a little bit but that was all. This material is more expensive but I’m thinking of setting some money aside for it so I can print replacement parts for a few broken things around the house, and for some gadgets I’ve been thinking about. We still have some Gray to finish up though, so it may be a little while off.

      Thanks for posting!

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